Downtown Phoenix Restaurants
From the Mag | Master Chefs Next Door
Posted on 4/26/13 by DPJ Staff » No Comments
Downtown Phoenix restaurants are a point of pride, and two chef-owners in particular have not only helped redefine their respective culinary corners but have earned international recognition as masters of their craft.
Read on for a Q&A with these Historic Heritage Square neighbors Chris Bianco, of Pizzeria Bianco, and Nobuo Fukuda, of Nobuo at Teeter House, originally published in the Aug/Sept 2011 edition of DPJ Magazine.
This Sunday, they will be joined by Chef Christopher Gross in Eight’s Check, Please! Arizona Festival’s James Beard Award winners panel moderated by “Check, Please! Arizona” host Robert McGrath. (See festival details here.)
Chris Bianco
James Beard Award Winner Chris Bianco is known the world over for his creations. Pizzeria Bianco is critically, and tastefully, the country’s best pizza. And, he’s been a part of Phoenix for some time now, growing and changing in concert with his environment. Bianco is passionate about food, Downtown and the building that houses his baby, Pizzeria Bianco, and he’s flexible and ready for what the future may hold.
DPJ: When you decided on this building for Pizzeria Bianco, was it because of the demographic of the area?
CB: It wasn’t as much the demographic as the uniqueness. The synergy. The juxtaposition of something of this genre of the late 1920s, utilitarian machine shop that we could build and use with an intention that was uncompromising of the space. It wasn’t me coming and spray painting it black. This was something that demands to be celebrated. It was about bringing something back in a way but not necessarily denying the history of the journey itself.
DPJ: Were you nervous about the decision to plant yourself in Downtown Phoenix, when at the time, it wasn’t nearly as alive as it is now?
CB: Not really. I always use the analysis of four friends. Ask four friends if they would and you kind of build your demographic around that. It’s maybe a small study. You can’t essentially serve the world. If you can serve a part of it and serve them well with clear intention and the opportunity to build a relationship. I have a relationship with my clientele. I have a relationship with this building. I have a relationship with my staff. I have a relationship with my farmers and artisans. It’s very relationship built. These spaces represent something really specific in the human experience.
DPJ: What does it mean for you to be housed in a historic building?
CB: These buildings are really special, so I love being in here. I love the experience. We had to be as good as the space, essentially. You want it to be a place where…all the stars align. For us, it’s been a wonderful journey but a journey that’s ongoing. There’s an accountability. We’re continuing to remodel, internally and in some ways externally, we’re continuing to be relevant.
DPJ: What brought you Downtown?
CB: I wasn’t really driven to Downtown, as much as I was driven to the opportunity to help, and be maybe a raindrop and not the flood, you know what I’m saying? You don’t open up lofts, or grocery stores and then build lofts. You build lofts and you let people live there and it dictates a need for a barber shop, a flower shop or a grocery. Part of what we were trying to do was this size. What I was trying to achieve, was not feed 3,000 people a day.
DPJ: What do you think of how Phoenix has evolved over the years?
CB: It’s evolved nicely. We try to support…Nobuo actually having a chef of his caliber is unbelievable, but also Matt’s Big Breakfast. There’s a lot of things Downtown from a culinary point, and just as a point as a city, we’re getting there. When we say we’re not there yet, it shouldn’t be a negative. It should be a positive. Look at the opportunity. There’s a wonderful opportunity. We’ve continued to be a part of the growth itself.
Nobuo Fukuda
Nobuo Fukuda may be the new kid in town, but he’s not new to the Valley’s culinary scene. He is a James Beard Award winner and is ever evolving, still tinkering with presentation and preparation, on a micro scale (in his kitchen) to a global scale (following the nuclear disaster in Japan).
DPJ: How is your Phoenix location different from Sea Saw in Scottsdale?
NF: The energy level is totally different. The place in Scottsdale, the dining room is our kitchen. We have a grill and we make everything on counters. When you’re in the restaurant we have a U-shaped counter. Anybody can sit down and watch me cook. [It’s a] totally different kind of atmosphere. Here we started out a little more casual, street-type food. Small bites. Here, it’s more of a casual, sit-down dining.
DPJ: Has the downtown area accepted your casual dining idea? Do you have regulars?
NF: We do have a few regulars who are coming here or have business here. And they’ll keep coming back for us, which is very, very nice. As more people start to live in downtown, a lot of people [including] my employees, have moved downtown. We have a very good feel for the future in Downtown Phoenix. Nice energy.
DPJ: Have you run into any challenges at Teeter House?
NF: We’re still trying to adjust the kitchen size. It’s challenging. And when it’s crazy busy, we don’t have enough space. It’s a small space to work with. We’re going to see what we can do, so we’re still working every moment. Our food is not going to be different but the style of how we serve, we still like a tasting, paired wines, but we have to be careful how we do it.
DPJ: How have you had to adjust?
NF: My vision will be a lot of organic, local, and high-end Japanese fish. It’s very difficult for me to get Japanese fish right now because of the nuclear disaster. Eventually we’ll be able to do it again, [with] interesting Japanese fish and an interesting local vegetable. It’s a mix of different ingredients, one way with the casual style and the other will be more high end. We do get Japanese fish from southern Japan, which is not affected by the radiation. It’s not easy, but still those fish are available. The northern Japanese fish is not available. We do a lot of local vegetable and we use a fish as an accent. But main character is a garden vegetable. That’s what I’ve been doing for a little bit.
DPJ: What do you think about your new space?
NF: The building, compared to other restaurants in Scottsdale, they’re just buildings, minimum designs. Just buildings. We were going to move across the street, but there was a brand new designer building, but that was not my intention. I feel very moved to the old buildings because they have history and give us more ambiance and warmness. It makes me more special.
Lisa Nicita and Justin Lee contributed to this article.
Photography by Jack London.
Scratch French Cafe Opens THIS Weekend UPDATED
Posted on 3/08/13 by April Atwood » No Comments
UPDATE: DPJ was just informed Scratch will be opening next week TOMORROW, March 9!
Downtown Phoenix is about to get a bit sweeter.
Duc Liao readies to open the doors
Scratch, a Scottsdale based French restaurant and bakery run by husband and wife team Duc and Noelle Liao, is set to open a second location in downtown Phoenix. It will be one of a handful of restaurants to occupy the long-empty Canvas space, on 3rdStreet and Roosevelt. La vie en pastries!
Originally from France, owner and chef Duc Liao whips up beautiful creations in the kitchen and behind the lens, as a professional fashion photographer whose work can be found in everything from Vogue to Vanity Fair (and DPJ). The transition from beautiful images to beautiful pastries may seem a far stretch, but to Liao, it makes perfect sense.
“It’s all about expressing yourself,” he said.
Perhaps the sweetest part of the deal is the revitalization of empty downtown real estate into a vibrant epicurean hub, featuring Asian, Mexican and American dining options, not to mention luscious French dessert. As a surprise and treat to Phoenicians, Liao will be simultaneously opening a dedicated French pastry café next door to Scratch restaurant.
“We tried to have something that exists everywhere, at least in big cities, but not here in Phoenix yet. A really dedicated volume and space to pastries, so people can drive miles to find something sweet. Because I used to do that, in Paris.”
Renovating the space came at the perfect time for Liao, who says he’s thrilled to have a presence in the growing downtown area.
“We love downtown Phoenix. It’s a place where we couldn’t afford to be before, but now that it’s more developed, it’s an amazing time for us to be here.”
Liao is also reworking the lunch and dinner menus to feature playful twists on classic American fare, as well as French staples that remind him of home.
“Lately we’ve been developing a lot of burgers. I think that this is an amazing texture,” Liao said.
Creating complements to the traditional burger has resulted in a wide variety of flavors, Liao said, including variations on Kobe and crab burgers.
“People are responding amazingly to those differences.”
Look for the opening this weekend, giving downtown visitors a new destination during what promises to be a fantastic First Friday.
If you go:
What: Scratch French Cafe
Where: 1011 N. 3rd Street
Contact: Facebook
E&D Beat | Vovomeena
Posted on 12/11/12 by Angela Dalessandro » No Comments
Want to go where the locals go? Read DPJ’s new E&D Beat and visit some favorite Eats & Drinks destinations.
(New) Local Fave: Vovomeena
District: Historic Roosevelt
Owners: DJ Fernandes and Jessica Ruiz (of Tuck Shop and Astor House)
Opened: 2012
Identity: Like Carly’s, this local favorite’s identity is reflected in a painted mural on the entry wall. “Vovo” is grandmother in Portuguese, and “Meena” is the name of owner DJ Ferandes grandmother. This breakfast spot is bistro style with a nautical twist. DJ and his family grew up on the shores of New England and even menu items like the Wilcox Avenue reflect the theme. A wall of ropes suspended from the ceiling to floor helps guide you to the open kitchen and counter where you “order in!” and take a seat with your number.
Have A Seat: The bistro tables inside are simple with mid-century modern chairs. The seating along the wood-planked wall provides a great view for people watching and feeling a part of the morning hustle. Toward the back is a quiet sitting nook complete with home style furnishings, and opposite is a secluded area perfect for thumbing through the daily paper (or favorite online journal?). Cooler weather finally has reached the valley and a modest patio, blocked from busy 7th Ave, allows for soaking up some sunshine while the java warms your hands.
The Eats: Vovomeena takes pride in serving specialties made with mostly organic, local ingredients. Peddler’s Son, Schreiner’s Sausage, The Roastery of Cave Creek, and Boxed Greens are all local contributors to the scrumptious Portuguese inspired menu. One try-not-to-lick-the-plate dish is the B.M.O.C.: a Schreiner’s pork chop, waffle, apple-maple syrup, two eggs, AND a Portuguese donut tower takes you beyond chicken and waffles and into salty/sweet bliss. The pork chop is tender and smoky, while the waffle is fresh and sweet. The special of the day is posted on their social media networks and in the restaurant. You’ll find plates like a Schreiner’s BLT with organic spinach, vine ripened tomatoes, and a house made chipotle mayonnaise.
The Coffee: Visit resident barista Ryan Avery, well known in the community for serving up artfully crafted coffee drinks with a friendly smile. The star beverage is the cold brewed coffee. Traditionalists may stick to their hot drinks, but any caffeine junky will be satisfied after trying this brewing method. Manager Kaj Macussen explains the process takes 12-14 hours but the result is worth the wait. With no heat, zero caffeine is burned off, so the coffee is stronger without being overpowering in taste. Also, no heat means that the subtle flavors of the beans are sustained with no bitterness and a smooth finish. “I think we are one of only a few places in the valley that brew this way and we are proud to serve such a good product,” says Macussen.
What They Say: After being open only a couple months, they are already seeing repeat guests. Some, like Makenna Mercer and Claudia Balderrama, were big fans of Astor House and Tuck Shop, which originally brought them in. After trying the new “mom and pop yummies” they were hooked. Mercer says, “Everything is original and the ambiance is bright and welcoming. We love the flight of cold brews!” Balderrama agrees with her friend, saying, “We like to support good food at a local place. This is fresh, home comfort food with a creative twist.”
Report: This adorable bistro will make you feel welcome with the warmth of a home style cooked breakfast or brunch. The value of your meal is top notch, and the moderate prices won’t drain your wallet. Downtowners are constantly thanking the employees for a neighborhood breakfast spot that is easy to get to with good parking and a friendly staff proudly serving some great food and beverages. Macussen hopes that “…people leave after the best breakfast they’ve had and think it was a fun place to visit…somewhere they can come over and over again.”
E&D Beat | Lux Central
Posted on 11/09/12 by Angela Dalessandro » No Comments
Want to go where the locals go? Read DPJ’s new E&D Beat and visit some favorite Eats & Drinks destinations.
Local Fave: Lux Central
District: Midtown Phoenix
Owner: Jeff Fischer
Opened: 2011
Identity: “It’s your third space,” says bartender Ben Linsenmeyer of Lux Central. “It’s a place that’s not home or work but that third space you spend the rest of your time. The place you feel comfortable enough to grab your cup of coffee before work and then return to for a late night cocktail with friends.” Ben explains that owner Jeff Fischer had a vision of creating this third space for his guests after attending a business conference about such things. What you won’t get here is a map telling you where to order, pick up, or someone telling you where to sit. “It’s meant to be that way,” Ben says. “People who don’t like our concept usually leave frustrated but then return with their friends, usually the very next day, explaining how it all works with a sense that now they’re ‘the cool ones’.”
Find Your Way: The space offers an urban feel with brick walls and rigid textures complimented by sleek, mid-century furnishings. On every surface sits another unique piece of art or a trinket that is waiting to tell you its story. You’d hardly expect this place to be considered a bar. In fact, the puzzling layout forces you to walk the entire space, discovering different corners that reveal elements of the conceptual bar/restaurant/roastery. Menus seem to be misplaced and employees aren’t outright identifiable. Any newcomer might initially be turned off, but a little exploration will have them delighted with this unconventional watering hole.
Have A Seat: With numerous seating areas, including a few different types of bars to sit at, you get a variety of experiences. Belly up to the low-sitting, polished-stone bar counter and watch your favorite bartender mix up a cocktail from fresh ingredients that are literally at your finger tips. Take your cocktail to one of the many community tables where you can chat with a business CEO and a local artist, finding an unexpected common ground. For the foodies, a comfy seating arrangement of tufted sofas or rough cut wood picnic style bench faces the open stainless steel kitchen.
The Eats: Find everything from organic steel cut oats to vegetarian egg bakes, seasonal pies and cookies, weekend breakfast NY strip steaks, and mac n’ cheese. This is a true local, seasonal menu offering the best in comfort food. The real fun is coming in to see the lunch and dinner offerings that change daily.
The Drinks: You’ll find the cocktail menu carefully handwritten on note cards, taped to a clear divider at the end of the bar. The bartenders are also happy to whip up something special, just for you. With high-end spirits and fresh herbs and produce, these mixologists will find a way to your inner buzz. As for beer and wine, Lux has a menu of over 50 domestic, local, craft, and imported brews, along with beautiful, recognizable wines and some approachable exotics – all fairly priced.
What They Say: “Lux is that place that everyone is leaving, going to, or is already at,” says Lux Central regular Emily Caldwell, owner of Gallery Parallax. She explains that you can arrive by yourself and by the end of your visit have made five new friends. Alternatively, you can find yourself a quiet nook and enjoy a house-roasted coffee or daily inspired cocktail while studying or working.
Report: Lux Central offers a social experiment, with a melting pot of guests and an eccentric, but exceptional service strategy. You’ll never have the same experience twice, but always the same quality in eats and drinks. Cheating on Lux to enjoy other places is expected, but this is the place where you’ll always return: Phoenix’s unique third space.
E&D Beat | Carly’s Bistro
Posted on 10/24/12 by Angela Dalessandro » No Comments
Want to go where the locals go? Read DPJ’s new E&D Beat and visit some favorite Eats & Drinks destinations.
Local Fave: Carly’s Bistro
District: Evans Churchill Neighborhood
Owners: Carla and John Wade
Opened: 2005
Arts Interplay: Carly’s is noticeable from a distance because of the large mural painted on the biggest outside wall, which gives a great first impression. Immediately after stepping inside, your eye is taken by the blood red walls hung with intriguing local artwork. Your ears are tickled with daily melodies chosen by the staff. From cool oldies to greats of blues and jazz, or a local band, Carly’s can go from a relaxing hang out to an exciting music venue. The bar surface itself is adorned with sketches and doodles from local artists who proudly donated them to Carly’s display. It’s a raw, interesting way to showcase the local talent.
Have a Seat: There are tufted black benches with small, square tables in seating areas. For the city view, sit street side along the large windows at the high, two tops. An even bigger group would still be as comfortable since all the tables are easily configured into larger ones. This is a true bistro experience, with swiveling, cushy bar stools encouraging social interaction in the busy bar.
The Eats: Try the salty Feta Rosa (roasted red pepper, garlic and feta with warm pita wedges) with a Westmalle Tripel and you’ve got yourself the perfect snack. Have a bigger appetite? Go for the Reuben, stacked with pastrami and sauerkraut on marble rye. Carly’s doesn’t shy away from culinary challenges either. One of their best items is a vegetarian sandwich called “Europa”. Marinated artichoke hearts, fresh tomatoes and spinach with roasted red peppers and smoked mozzarella are piled high on toasted focaccia bread. Most everything is under $10, so you’re sure to find something good for you and your wallet.
The Drinks: On the beverage side of things, Carly’s offers everything from local brews to imported craft beers, a decent wine selection, and a Phoenix New Times “Best of Phoenix” Bloody Mary amongst other classic drinks.
What They Say: Resident bartender, Brian Cresson, serves beautifully crafted cocktails with a side of easy conversation. “What used to draw me in is the fact that I am comfortable here. You can stroll into a casual atmosphere at almost any time of day or night and find your buddies having a good beer and some great food,” explains Cresson.
The Report: Come here to find a comfortable atmosphere, an excellent beer selection, simple and delicious cocktails that are almost always on special, great food at affordable prices, and the most artful, comfortable bar experience on Roosevelt. This is a local hangout done right.
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- Have a seat and stay a while.
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- Bartender Brian Cresson.
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- Take your pick.
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- It tastes even better!
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- A mural beckons you to come inside.
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- It’s a favorite for a reason.
